SUNDAY WRITERS’ ROUNDUP #11: Writers and Their Cafés

WRITERS AND CAFÉS go together like coffee and cream. Perhaps the connection started in the place where coffee houses first evolved, Ottoman Turkey, when the men met over small, sweet cups of Turkish coffee to socialize and entertain one another with backgammon and poetry, which is renowned in the East.

Later, when coffee came to Europe, the Viennese cafès were the unofficial office sites of many well-known writers. The Austrian journalist, Alfred Polgar (1873-1955), said to be a great wit at Vienna’s Café Central, wrote that coffee houses are “a place where people want to be alone, but need company to do so.” Maybe writers needed the noise and the caffeine to maintain the energy to face one white page after another.

CAFÈ CENTRAL, Vienna

Boris Vian (1920-1959), the French polymath (his skills included writing and poetry) claimed that “if there had not been any cafés, there would have been no Jean-Paul Sartre.” That’s an exaggeration of course, but one with which we can probably sympathize. I’ve read that Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir hung-out in Paris at Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore. The former was also a favorite of Rimbaud.

Pushkin boosted his courage with coffee, not alcohol, before his fatal duel in 1837 at The Literary Café in St. Petersburg. Byron, Casanova, and Henry James had their favorite coffee houses in Vienna. Lorca met Dalí at the Cafe de Oriente in Madrid, and Kafka worked on Metamorphosis at the Café Stefan in Prague. Oscar Wilde was famous in coffee houses throughout Europe, though perhaps not for having pen in hand.

HEMINGWAY, HADLEY and Friends, American Ex-pats in Paris

The connection between writers and coffee houses was well established by the time American ex-patriots arrived in Paris in the 1920s. Hemingway wrote about Cafe La Rotonde and Le Dome Cafe in The Sun Also Rises. He also frequented the Dingo Bar along with F. Scott Fitzgerald and Djuna Barnes.

The Pedrocchi Caffè in Padua, like many of the coffee houses mentioned here, is still in operation and is one of the world’s largest. It was Stendhal’s home-away-from-home …

… and so the affinity continues into recent times where The Elephant House in Edinburg is consider the “birth place of Harry Potter.”

THE ELEPHANT HOUSE, Edinburg, “the birthplace of Harry Potter”

My favorite coffee house is a modest little place, The Daily Grind, where they do what they call “Turkish Coffee.”  It’s actually an American coffee with cardamom. Not too shabby and more than a little inspirational …So what are you waiting for? Grab a cup of joe and write on ….

CAFÉ CENTRAL, VIENNA AUSTRIA

Photo credits ~ First photo courtesy of morgueFileCafè Central and Hemingway and Friends is in the public domain and via Wikipedia. The Elephant House Cafè is courtesy of Nicolai Schäfer licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license via Wikipedia.

Video uploaded to YouTube by 

For Paris Is A Moveable Feast

The Lost Generation by Blackbird

“I thought of Miss Stein and Sherwood Anderson and egotism and mental laziness versus discipline and I thought who is calling who a lost generation?” A Moveable Feast, Ernest Hemingway

“If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”  A Moveable Feast, Ernest Hemingway

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Martha Gellhorn: War Correspondent, Fiction Writer, and Ernest Hemingway’s third wife.

I’m in the middle of reading Martha Gellhorn’s The Weather In Africa and Caroline Moorehead’s Martha Gellhorn: A Life.  I do that a lot: read a writer’s work and a biography (if available) on her at the same time.  I find it both gratifying and enlightening to immerse myself in the times, places, mind, and opus all at once.  I’ve done it since junior high school days when, especially during the the summer, I’d read one writer exclusively and did not allow myself to start on another until I was done with the first.  So I had my Steinbeck summer, my Betty Smith summer, my Pearl Buck summer and so on.

Gellhorn, Hemingway’s third wife and married to him from 1940 -1945, was an intrepid war correspondent and a fiction writer.  Her work as a correspondent makes her far more than a footnote in Hemingway’s life. As a fiction writer, she was inspired by Hemingway and, at the same time, had to separate herself from him. Some say her fiction is best forgotten, but I find myself engaged.I will take the time to read more; and, at this point, feel safe to recommend The Weather in Africa. The Moorehead biography of Gellhorn is enjoyable. I have some reservations though. Moorehead  knew Gellhorn personally and her biases are evident. 

I’m up to the part of the bio where Gellhorn becomes involved with Hemingway, which makes me long for Hemingway’s Paris and “the lost generation:”  Hence I did a little video search – just love that YouTube – the result of which I share with you above. Perhaps when I’m done with Gellhorn, I’ll start over again with Hemingway.

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It occurs to me that my next cataract surgery is Tuesday, March 3.  If the second surgery is anything like the first I could probably take a page out of the lost generation cookbook and have an Alice B. Toklas Brownie (wheat-and-gluten free, of course) or one of Harry’s Bellini cocktails, made famous by Hemingway.

The Bellini was created by Giuseppe Cipriani.It’s an official cocktail of the International Bartenders’ Association. So, hey, turn the news off, toss out the paper, and take a little vacation from world weary woes. Pick up a copy of A Moveable Feast or The Weather in Africa, make yourself a Bellini, put your feet up and relax.

Bellini Cocktail

2 parts Prosseco (sparkling wine)

1 part white-peach puree

Pour the puree into a chilled champagne flute.  Add the Prosseco.  Gently stir.

February 5, 2009:  Thanks to Edward Snyder for passing along the link to the Arthur Moss website, which includes a Gallery of  Lost Generation pictures presented by Mr. Snyder.

Mr. Snyder’s Lost Generation Gallery Video