GF CHINESE DISH: NY CANTONESE-STYLE SHRIMP IN LOBSTER SAUCE

800px-chinatown_02_-_new_york_city

Photograph of grocery in Chinatown, Manhattan by Momos via Wikipedia under GNU Free Documentation License

“An ancient Chinese saying goes like this ‘Food is the nearest thing to Heaven’”.  Cooking Secrets of the Oldest Civilizations in the World, The-ChineseFood.

When it comes to favorite dishes, I  - probably not unlike you – always have a standard in mind. With Chinese food, my standard is from the Cantonese restaurants we went to in Brooklyn and Manhattan when I was growing up. Most specifically, there was a Chinese restaurant, the name of which escapes me after all these years, on 86th Street in the Bay Ridge section of Brooklyn between Fourth and Fifth Avenues.  My mom and I loved to go the the RKO theater up-the-block and then dinner after: egg rolls, barbequed spareribs, wonton soup, lobster Cantonese, kumquates and almond cookies . . . and lots and lots of sweetened oolong tea to wash it all down.  We didn’t know from Hunan or Sezhwan cooking because most of the Chinese in our area at that time came from Guangdong provence, spoke Cantonese dialects, and cooked in the Cantonese manner, albeit modified for American consumers.

Shrimp in lobster sauce is lobster Cantonese with shrimp instead of lobster.  Here is our family recipe adapted to be gluten-free. I believe I originally adapted it from an old copy of Pearl Buck’s Asian cookbook, which is probably no longer in print.

Soy sauce, which is ubiquitous in Chinese and other Asian cuisines, is made with wheat. Wheat-free versions of soy sauce and tamari are available.  They are just not generally used in restaurants. Hence, those of us with Celiac Disease (gluten enteropathy) or wheat-and-gluten sensitivity cannot eat in Chinese restaurants. We tend to miss it, as you might imagine.

NY Cantonese-style Shrimp in Lobster Sauce, Wheat-and-Gluten Free

The recipe:

Serves four

2 pounds of good-sized raw, fresh shrimp, shelled and devained

2 tablespoons of corn starch mixed with 1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon cornstarch desolved in 1 tablespoon of water

2 cloves of garlic, minced fine

1 tablespoon fermented black beans, soaked (in a spoonful of water) and chop roughly

1 tablespoon fresh ginger root, minced finely

1 green onion, minced finely and 2 green onions slivered

1/4 pound lean, ground pork

2 tablespoons sherry, preferably not cooking sherry

1 tablespoon wheat-free soy sauce or wheat-free tamari

1 cup gluten-free chicken or vegetable stock, homemade or packaged

1 egg, well beaten

oil of your choice, safflower, peanut, canola

4 cups of cooked brown or white rice

In one bowl, dust the shrimp with the mixture of cornstarch and salt.  Set aside. In another bowl, mix the garlic, ginger, and minced green onion. Transfer mixture to a nice sized fry pan or a wok with a few tables of oil in it. When the aroma starts to waft add the pork and mash with a fork stiring until it is brown and broken into little pieces.  Add the soy, sherry, black beans, and stock. Bring to boil, and then lower to a simmer and add the shrimp, stiring well so that it cooks through.  Add the last spoonful of cornstarch, stiring constantly to blend and thicken. Pour in the beaten egg and keep stiring so that it from threads.  Make sure the shrimp is cooked through. Turn off gas and stir in the slivered green onions. Serve hot over rice.

Golden Dragon Oolong Tea from Peet’s Coffee and Tea is a fine accompaniment.

Returning to Dreamland

This video is of a reading – in sterling Brooklynese – of Lawrence Ferlinghetti’s poem, Coney Island of the Mind. It was created and posted on YouTube by BooUrns28 and includes some of his own thoughts and memories.

One belongs to Coney Island instantly . . . “

The fabulous 50s and rebellious 60s: Lugging bags with bathing suits, the requisite portable radio, beach blanket and towels, hopping on the BMT, enduring summer’s outrageous heat and humidity, and heading for Stillwell Avenue and Coney Island, carnival of the weird and wonderful, “circus of the soul”.

The raucous Coney Island rides and bazaar shows were never to my taste, but the boardwalk, the people-watching, the beach, riding the waves, the cupie dolls, the hot dogs and French fries, and holding out for Surf Avenue and Shatzkin’s potato knishes . . . oh, those Shatzkin’s knishes with yellow mustard . . . these were fascinations. When I went with family, we always had lovely, sweet, pastel-colored cotton candy.  It was fun to watch it being prepared. White-paper cones dipped into a huge metal vat to catch and hold the sugar as it spun into sticky, cottony threads. It was made to order. As a high school sophomore, I went to Coney Island with my steady, Mike. He won a stuffed teddy bear for me at one of the ball-toss games, the stuff of romantic old movies. The teddy stayed long after Mike was gone.

Coney Island is so much a part of American iconography and honky-tonk subculture that it’s probably on your radar even if you’ve never been there. It’s the stuff of artists rendering in everything creative: photography, movies, music, fine arts, books, and poems. Link here to a short film, In Memoriam, Coney Island 1952, which was an International Venice Film Festival Prizewinner. The narrator is Henry Morgan. This movie catches the flavor of the place as I knew it with its incredible crowds and all that is odd, funny, vulgar, outrageous and, somehow, perfectly wonderful. The movie is also at Weirdo Video, self-described as “Rare & authentic 16mm films of cultural, historical and ironical significance.”